Muffler Leak Repair

The muffler's fiberglass tube, that  connects to the exhaust hose, developed a crack.  Here's a picture of the tube.  

Clearly visible, thanks to the carbon in the exhaust, is the line of failure.  The line was along a seam in the fiberglass layup.  I suspect that's why the tube fractured the way it did.

The line of failure and the area around it was cutout with a 1/4" wide abrasive wheel.

Tape was temporarily put inside the tube along the length of the slot.  The slot was filled with West 404 thickened epoxy.  A layer of mat and cloth, wetted in West epoxy was wrapped around the entire circumference of the exhaust tube. 

After finishing the rough edges, the exhaust hose was reattached to the muffler.

An eight hour run, at 1800 rpm, confirmed that there are now no leaks.

Cummins Connector Box

Cummins connector box with Balmar ARS-5 regulator mounted on front.

Wire connections to the 15-place terminal strip inside the connector box.

Nellie has a Balmar 9115 alternator.

Chafe Guard

Added a chafe guard on the turbo's oil supply line.  

Water Heater Hose Split

During this morning's engine check water started leaking from the upper hotwater tank hose--drip, drip, drip.  The hose's outer layer had split.  I suspect that my back repetitivly pressing against the hose during engine check caused the fatigue failure.  The hoses' damaged end was removed.  The remaining hose was more than long enough, so it was reattached to the hot water tank.

Note to self: don't lean back so hard during engine check ;-)

Wheelhouse Noise Level

The following was recorded in calm seas at 1800 rpm.

Electrical Outlets

Yesterday I noticed that the OEM Jimbo outlet, located under the saloon's middle, starboard side window was cracked.  After pulling off the wood faceplate all the broken pieces just fell out.  Apparently the 1987 electrical code didn't require the receptacle to be polarized--both upper apertures on the Jimbo ("Before" picture) are the same size.  It's nice that the shape of the outlets hasn't changed in 32 years and the wood faceplate fits the new outlet perfectly.  By the way, the teak faceplates were hand made by the Yard.

Makeup Table Light, Yamaha Carburetor, etc.

 I wasn't able to find a satisfactory replacement light for above the stateroom's makeup table, so I made one. 

  Don't laugh, it's made of three, Dollar Tree, battery powered, LED lights.  However, rather than being powered by individual AAA batteries, I connected them to the boat's 12V system.  Plugging a 4.5V device into a 12V supply is a sure way to let the magic smoke out.  The connection was made possible by the use of a 12V to 5V buck converter.  A buck converter is what's inside those ubiquitious, 12V, USB, phone chargers.

They're available everywhere, including at, drum roll please, Dollar Tree.  I removed the buck from it's cigarette lighter enclosure and soldered it into the light's switch.  Then I soldered the buck's 5V power to each of the three lights.  I used Dollar Tree doubled-sided tape to hold the lights firmly and closely together.  Then 1" round magnets, also from Dollar Tree, were affixed, using doubled-sided tape, to the back of each light and to corresponding points on the ceiling.  Yup, got the magnets at Dollar Tree too. Total material cost $6.36.  Total labor cost... hey, not everything is about money!

The dink has been running rough for several years.  Today I took the carb apart and found lots of sticky stuff inside it.  The low speed jet, which has very small holes, was badly blocked.  After a thorough cleaning the engine started and ran much better.  

Re-painted the windshield wiper arms black.  Also, sanded and and Cetoled the wiper wells where they finish was damaged during the new wiper installation.

Sanded and polyurethaned the leading edge on the nav station insert above the stateroom steps.