Batteries and Wires

All the cables and hoses on the starboard side of the engine are being rerouted.

Got a port side and starboard side battery off. Heavy suckers!

Easy Out

Thank goodness, the headless engine-mount bolt came out relatively easily. From the picture above you can see that the bolt was well lubricated. Memo to self, always use antiseize.  Adding evidence to a fatigue failure is the rough edge of the bolt where it broke.  

Broken rear mounting bolts seem to be a common problem on LNVTs with Cummins engines. Having a four point mount, like Nellie's, doesn't prevent the problem.  Rather than merely inspecting the bolts on some periodic basis, Nellie bolts will be replaced biannually.  The bolts will be Grade 8 USS, 7/16"-14 x 1-1/4".

At the top of the picture above is where engine mount was removed. It would be impossible to access it with the turbo and exhaust hose in place.  The engine is being held up with cedar shims.  Not only do they work, they're easy to work with and they smell good.

To quote John Mackie, "Double crap!"

Tried to replace the missing engine mount bolt this morning only to find there was already a bolt, or more properly a headless bolt already in there. It was after asking John's advice on how best to remove the bolt that he said "Crap!" It was after he realized that it was the most inaccessible bolt that he said, "Double crap!" After removing the engine mount I got this picture of the broken bolt. I don't believe it was a shear failure as the mount is still lined up with transmission. Fatigue is the likely culprit. If so, it won't be too hard to get the bolt out.

Before the Engine Paint

Things that make you go hmmm...

Cleaning Parts in the Livingroom

More Pieces Off the Cummins

Finished up replacing the insulation on the bottom of the the saloon and galley floor boards.



Continued pulling parts off the engine today.  The Cummins wire harness will be replaced as the wire's insulation is getting stiff and brittle.  To do this will require reverse engineering the existing wiring schematic.

Thanks to a recommendation by John Olsen, S/V Daydreamer, we'll be prepping the engine with POR-15.  Daydreamer's engine remained rust free for at least 10 years--I'm good with that ;-)

I finally was able to get the raw water pump off the engine; there was some silicone gasket material that was really sticking well.  I can see why others recommended changing the impeller by first taking the pump off; it's a breeze removing the remaining three bolts holding the pump housing together.