Painted the bottom with one gallon of Rust-Oleum bottom paint (47.5% copper). Since Nellie will be hauled in October there's no need to do a full bottom job now. (Update: The Rust-Oleum was not a good bottom paint; lots of hard growth--10 May 2014).
Tried again to fix the slow leak in the dink. The process was (1) rough sand the area; (2) wipe it down with tolulene; (3) put three layers of 2-part adhesive on both the patch and the area to be covered; (4) apply the patch and rub it hard into place with a wrench. Letting the patch sit for 24 hours before blowing the dink up.
Had a hard time replacing the 4"x6" Divers Dream zinc. Its nuts were completely encrusted with marine growth. Both studs turned. Got the zinc off but will have to remove the studs and re-bed them before putting the new zinc on.
A year since it was installed the heat exchanger's pencil zinc was completely gone. Need to check it every six months.
Sunday, December 23, 2012
Saturday, December 22, 2012
That's Why We Test!
Installed corrugated stainless steel gas line between the Force 10's 3/8" male flare fitting and Nellie's 5/16" flared cap (female fitting.
The good news is that changing out Vacuflush parts is becoming easier and easier to do. The bad news is that I was working on the head again today. I'm pretty sure that the vacuum leak is at the el under the toilet. It's a very slow leak as the vacuum pump comes on maybe once in four hours and then only for seconds. Today I took out the makeshift el and installed a proper PVC one. Had to use a heat gun on the white toilet hose to make it easier to get the connectors in.
That's why we test! After filling the holding tank with water until it overflowed from the deck plate, we found two leaks in the system. Much better to find the leaks now with clean water than later with … ;-) after fixing the leaks a re-test revealed nothing but dry joints.
Relocated all the life jackets from the top of the stateroom's hanging locker to underneath the salon's settee. Still easy access and reduces clutter. Speaking of clutter, the storage location for the the pilothouse's floor and nav table inserts is now on top of the genset. At least while at the dock this keeps the pilothouse bench foot rest clutter free.
Replaced the starboard davit's 4mm wire rope with 3/16" Amsteel-Blue. Reused the wire rope's thimble and wove it into place using a fid made from a 6mm knitting needle ($2.50/pair at Walmart). The needle is hollow and when cut to about 4" long, worked perfectly. Some nylon whipping, from the thimble up the falls 4", keeps the stainless weights from rubbing on the Amsteel-Blue.
Covered the chain-locker-side of the doors at the end of the bunk with an insulated plastic sheet. This helps keeps water spray and odors in the chain locker.
Scraped more loose gel coat from the hull. Started to put black bottom paint on just the bare spots but have decided to go ahead and put bottom paint on the entire bottom. Need more paint.
The stateroom is finished! The mattress cover was washed, air dried and sprayed with a deodorant. The new polished brass lights were re-installed. The new bedspread and new throw pillows were put fashionably in place.
Installed a new bronze Kohler sink faucet. Redid all the cable ties holding the saltwater and water tank vent lines to the back of the kitchen sink cabinet. Believe it on not, the back cabinet is made of teak.
The good news is that changing out Vacuflush parts is becoming easier and easier to do. The bad news is that I was working on the head again today. I'm pretty sure that the vacuum leak is at the el under the toilet. It's a very slow leak as the vacuum pump comes on maybe once in four hours and then only for seconds. Today I took out the makeshift el and installed a proper PVC one. Had to use a heat gun on the white toilet hose to make it easier to get the connectors in.
That's why we test! After filling the holding tank with water until it overflowed from the deck plate, we found two leaks in the system. Much better to find the leaks now with clean water than later with … ;-) after fixing the leaks a re-test revealed nothing but dry joints.
Relocated all the life jackets from the top of the stateroom's hanging locker to underneath the salon's settee. Still easy access and reduces clutter. Speaking of clutter, the storage location for the the pilothouse's floor and nav table inserts is now on top of the genset. At least while at the dock this keeps the pilothouse bench foot rest clutter free.
Replaced the starboard davit's 4mm wire rope with 3/16" Amsteel-Blue. Reused the wire rope's thimble and wove it into place using a fid made from a 6mm knitting needle ($2.50/pair at Walmart). The needle is hollow and when cut to about 4" long, worked perfectly. Some nylon whipping, from the thimble up the falls 4", keeps the stainless weights from rubbing on the Amsteel-Blue.
Covered the chain-locker-side of the doors at the end of the bunk with an insulated plastic sheet. This helps keeps water spray and odors in the chain locker.
Scraped more loose gel coat from the hull. Started to put black bottom paint on just the bare spots but have decided to go ahead and put bottom paint on the entire bottom. Need more paint.
The stateroom is finished! The mattress cover was washed, air dried and sprayed with a deodorant. The new polished brass lights were re-installed. The new bedspread and new throw pillows were put fashionably in place.
Installed a new bronze Kohler sink faucet. Redid all the cable ties holding the saltwater and water tank vent lines to the back of the kitchen sink cabinet. Believe it on not, the back cabinet is made of teak.
Friday, December 21, 2012
New Force 10 Stove
Installed a Force 10 stainless steel three burner stove. The LNVT has a very nice stainless steel lined stove recess that's 24"(w) x 22" (d) x 22" (h). The LP gas line from the stack is the same 5/16" copper tubing that is used for the diesel fuel system. The LP gas tube enters the stove recess from the top, forward, outboard side. The Force 10 is gimbaled and uses two side-mounted brackets for support.
Ocean Eagle Yachts installed some nice looking teak trim between the recess and the old stove. I'll do the same when Nellie gets to the Chesapeake.
Finished painting the forward stateroom. Replaced the screening in both ceiling hatches. Polyurethaned the screens' frames.
Ocean Eagle Yachts installed some nice looking teak trim between the recess and the old stove. I'll do the same when Nellie gets to the Chesapeake.
Finished painting the forward stateroom. Replaced the screening in both ceiling hatches. Polyurethaned the screens' frames.
Thursday, December 20, 2012
Polish and Paint
More polishing and painting today.
The stateroom is almost done, just need a few more coats of paint on the boards under the berth.
Finished putting polyurethane on the refirgerator door, undersink cabinet doors and the fiddle.
Polished and lacquered the refrigerator door hardware.
Replaced another 27 deck screws with teak dowels.
The stateroom is almost done, just need a few more coats of paint on the boards under the berth.
Finished putting polyurethane on the refirgerator door, undersink cabinet doors and the fiddle.
Polished and lacquered the refrigerator door hardware.
Replaced another 27 deck screws with teak dowels.
Wednesday, December 19, 2012
Wire Rope vs. Amsteel-Blue
A lot more polyurethane went into the stateroom and kitchen today. Like the pilothouse all the accent wood (frames, fiddles, etc.) is done in gloss. Everything is in semigloss. All the stateroom brass hardware was removed, polished and lacquered. I've heard the lacquer works well to keep the brass polished; we'll see.
The wire rope supporting the dinghy's bow parted today while lowering the dink to the ground. Fortunately the dink was down when it happened. My guess is that when the weight was off, the wire tangled on the winch drum. The good news is that removing the winch assembly from the Simpson 175 is as easy as removing seven screws. The 175 has 18' of 7x19, right hand lay, 5/32" (4mm), stainless wire rope. I'm going to try some 5/32" Amsteel-Blue in lieu of the stainless. Replaced another 41 deck screws with teak dowels.
The wire rope supporting the dinghy's bow parted today while lowering the dink to the ground. Fortunately the dink was down when it happened. My guess is that when the weight was off, the wire tangled on the winch drum. The good news is that removing the winch assembly from the Simpson 175 is as easy as removing seven screws. The 175 has 18' of 7x19, right hand lay, 5/32" (4mm), stainless wire rope. I'm going to try some 5/32" Amsteel-Blue in lieu of the stainless. Replaced another 41 deck screws with teak dowels.
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
Monday, December 17, 2012
Thoughts on Window Channel Upgrade
Got the salon's starboard forward and starboard middle windows back in. Black GE Silicon II caulk was used between the inner window retainer and the stainless frame as well as between the outer window retainer and the stainless frame. The same caulk was used between the non-movable window and its retainer (i.e. the outer retainer) to lock the window in place. If the screws holding the retainers leak, water will find its way into the void between the salon's outer fiberglass wall and the wood of the inner wall. This may be where Nellie's port side leak is. Clearly the screws which cause the most concern are the ones that water naturally pools on, i.e. those on the bottom of the window. The inner retainer has no screws on the bottom--just two on the forward side and one on the aft. The outer retainer has three screws on the bottom. Two of these can't be serviced as they're covered by the fixed pane. I caulked closed those two holes and didn't put screws back in them--I fear leaks more than I fear the loss of strength from the missing two screws.
Got the third and last coat of Helsman Spar Urethane on the outward facing edge of the teak window frames.
Cut the water drainage slots through the Trim-Lok U-channels.
Got the third and last coat of Helsman Spar Urethane on the outward facing edge of the teak window frames.
Cut the water drainage slots through the Trim-Lok U-channels.
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