Thursday, May 9, 2019

Part 2: Installing the Rebuilt Fuel Injector Pump

Continuing with the fuel injector install.

Connected the ignition switch line to the fuel injector pump's cutoff solenoid.  I'm not happy with the friction-fit connection and will keep an eye on it.  Should the wire come off, the engine will stop instantly.


Installed the throttle cable and its support bracket next.  Put some washers (shown in red below) between the mounting plate and the injection pump to reduce the angle between the cable and where it connects to the injection pump.  With less bending the cable should last longer.  Also adjusted the cable length so idle speed occurs when the helm's throttle lever is fully aft.


Next up, installing the four tubes between the injection pump and the injectors.  There was some serious wear on injector tube #3 where it touched a turbocharger hose clamp (pictured at left).  When reinstalled the tube was relocated away from the clamp (pictured at right).


The 7/8" nuts holding tubes #1 and #3 to their respective injectors were tightened.  The nuts for #2 and #4 were left finger tight.

The injection pump's fuel return was installed next.


The fuel supply tube was next.  The nut above the fuel filter is torqued to 18 ft-lbs.


With the manual lift pump, fuel was pumped into the injection pump.  The two injection pump bleed bolts were loosened, bottom bolt first, until fuel came out; then the bleed bolts were tightened.  Fuel was pumped until the manual lever offered no resistance, at which point the system is completely full.


Before start check list:
  1. Tighten fuel lines to injectors #1 and #3.
  2. Screw on but leave loose fuel lines to #2 and #3.
  3. Confirm bolts on injector return lines at tight.
  4. Confirm the two injection tube super clamps are tight.
  5. Confirm fuel injector return line tight.
  6. Confirm two injector pump fuel supply lines tight.
  7. Confirm the bolt above fuel filter supply is tight.
  8. Confirm throttle cable is safety wired into throttle arm.
  9. Confirm throttle cable is securely attached to its mounting plate.
  10. Confirm throttle cable mounting plate is securely attached to injection pump.
  11. Confirm 12V line is attached to injection pump's cutoff solenoid.
  12. Confirm injection pump's shaft lock is in the up positioned and tightened.
  13. Confirm the three injection pump mounting bolts are tight.
  14. Confirm the four nuts holding the injector tubes to the injection pump are tight.
  15. Inspect the injection pump's drive shaft bolt and make sure paper towels have been removed.
  16. Check antifreeze level.  It was down about a pint.  Why?
  17. Check oil level.
Have lunch.  Not sure this is a requirement but it is a good idea ;-)


Turned the engine over for a few seconds and then inspected everywhere for fuel leaks.  None found.  Turned the engine over for a few more seconds.  The engine showed no life.   Bled the injector pump, again, at both bolt locations.  Both had strong fuel flows.  Unscrewed the fuel tube retaining nuts from injectors #2 and #4 and put paper towels between the tubes and injectors.  This makes it easier to see if fuel is coming out of the tubes.  Turned the engine over for 6 more seconds before diesel stated showing on #2's paper towel.  Tightened #2's nut.  Turned the engine over for three more seconds before fuel came out of #4's tube.  Tightened #4.  Turned the engine over for three more seconds.  Nothing.  Barely loosened #1's injector and turned the engine over.  Fuel started appearing between #1's tube and its retaining nut.  It was then that the engine showed its first sign of wanting to start.  After tightening #1's nut, the engine was turned over and it started instantly.  A drop of fuel was seen coming from under the injection pump.  The injection pump was thoughly wiped down.  The engine was then restarted.  CND, i.e. I could not duplicate, nor find any leaks.  Perhaps the fuel came from one of the bleed bolts when they were loosened earlier.  The engine, she is a runnin' :-)

Two other jobs were accomplished today.

New serpentine belt.  



Turned off the fuel supply valves located under the saloon floor so that when the Racor is opened, fuel won't drain back into the tanks.


Changed the two primary fuel filters--they're both Racor 500s.   The filter closest to the fuel tanks, located under the starboard gallery sink, is 30 microns.  The filter next inline, which is located on the engine's port side, is 1 micron.  After installing the new filters each Racor was filled with diesel.  Finally, the fuel supply valves were reopened.  Um, just noticed on the picture of the valves, above, I closed the forward return tanks instead of the aft supply tanks.  No wonder the Racor's fuel level kept going down after I stopped filling it... 


Galley Racor (L) and engine room Racor (R)




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