Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Part 1: Installing the Rebuilt Fuel Injector Pump

Tightened the four bolts holding the block inspection port in place.  With the injection pump out they're easy to get to.  This should help sterm the small oil leaks from around the plate's rubber gasket.



Withdrew the top dead center (TDC) pin which had gotten stuck in the TDC engaged position.



Changed the engine-mounted (secondary) fuel filter and filled the newly installed filter using the lift pump's manual pump lever.  When the engine is at TDC, the manual lever pumps just fine.  At other piston positions, the fuel pump cam disables the manual lever.


John Mackie, John William 37VT68, said that while removing the injection pump he dropped the pump's lock washer into the engine.  To retrieve it required dismantling the whole front of the engine.  To prevent a similar occurrence I now stuff paper towels in any engine openings.


Now all I have to do is torque the 7/8" bolt to 48 ft-lbs and to remember to remove the paper towels before closing up.  Ok, done.

An always perfectly good raw water impeller is changed at the beginning of every season.  


The logic?  I'd rather replace a perfectly good one now than a failed one in the middle of a nausea inducing seaway.  The picture shows which way the blades should be going.

The injector nuts' torque requirement is 44 ft-lbs.  They all went in easily.  

Next up, attaching the return fuel tube to each injector.  The tube is visible in the picture below (it has green tape on each port).


Copper washers go on each side of the tube.  Fortunately, Cummins offers the two washers attached to a strap.  They're worth the $1/each.






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